Zucchini and Onion Gratin with Herbed Breadcrumbs

It might seem less appropriate to cook zucchini when they’re as bright and bouncy as in the summer. And I don’t mean just lightly sear, but really cook — at a slow and low roast until meltingly tender — fresh, in-season zucchini. It might seem inappropriate to turn on the oven at all. But this aberration to my summer cooking routine has yielded a dramatically sweet, savory, and altogether satisfying way to enjoy one of my all-time favorite foods. It’s kind of like … Read More

Stinging Nettle Salsa Verde with ‘Good Eggs’

Things are looking sunny side-up in Brooklyn. First a month of rain, then a scorching week of heat, now it’s clear and mid-seventies, and the first ears of sweet corn from local farms have arrived. All of which inspired this rather hearty breakfast (and, of course, the inspiration of huevos rancheros). But the secret ingredient of stinging nettles in the sauce, and the incredible eggs, were sourced from a grocery delivery startup new to NYC called Good Eggs. Read on … Read More

Pan-Roasted Flounder and Zucchini with Corn and Peach Salsa

posted in: Recipes, Seafood | 3

Oh happy day — midsummer has arrived, and all my favorite foods like peaches and sweet corn are now in season. My life is finally complete. I thought I’d celebrate with a confetti of those things, splayed across a delicate-tasting canvas of fresh flounder fillets. Nothing too crazy at this party, except for that crack-pow-pop! like fireworks in the sky of flavor–juicy, crisp, tender and sweet. Man, I wish the Fourth of July came a little later into the summer … Read More

6 Cooling Recipes (that are no-sweat to cook)

posted in: Recipes, Ruminations | 3

It’s hot enough to cook a hamburger on a car’s hood. But that’s probably not the kind of food you need right now, in 100-degree heat. The weather has become brutal in NYC, and it’s easy to use that suffering as excuse to lax up on good eating habits. But if you eat a lot of warming, acid-forming, heavy or greasy foods, too, the heat will only get worse… internally.

Pasta with Lettuce, Pecorino, Pine Nuts & Lemon

This could either be really offensive or really resourceful-sounding. I’m clearly hoping for the latter scenario. It’s because so many have recently shared with me their frustrations of lettuce overabundance, and salad-eating fatigue, that I deemed this recipe worthy of sharing (and caring) in return. Yes, it’s that point for me, too, thanks to the CSA season: produce is coming in too fast, too soon. Yes, I have reached the maximum capacity of lettuce that can be stuffed in the … Read More

Chilled Pea Soup with Wasabi Cream

It’s too hot to eat hot soup, but cold soups might benefit from a certain sort of heat. That’s what I figured when I set out to make a smooth, creamy puree of shelled English peas. Chilled soup is a great fix for a hot summer day–light and refreshing yet satisfyingly tasty. Then I recalled the taste of another favorite application for peas: those crunchy, wasabi-glazed snacks.

Green Garlic Aioli

If you have an egg yolk, oil, and a splash of something acidic (lemon or vinegar), you can make mayonnaise. But while you’re undergoing this effort at home, why just make plain old mayo?  Adding garlic and good olive oil, you can make aioli–and if it’s spring or early summer, why not add green garlic, the mild, sweet, early-stage allium that can be found this season?

Soy and Sake-Marinated Spare Ribs

posted in: Meat & Poultry, Recipes | 3

Merriam-Webster Dictionary defines “spare” in several ways: “to refrain from attacking or reprimanding with necessary or salutary severity,” in one; “to relieve of the necessity of doing or undergoing something <spare yourself the trouble>” as another; or “to use or dispense frugally — used chiefly in the negative <don’t spare the syrup>” as yet one more. Yet it’s the second category of the sixth definition for the word that I think “spare ribs” are most akin to, that it’s “to have left over … Read More

Hakurei Turnip Sautée with Ginger, Carrots and Sugarsnap Peas

It’s slightly warm, but it’s a salad alright. The peas are still crisp but have deepened in color. The carrots are infused with a hint of ginger to bring out their sweetness even more. And the little, white turnips? They taste so much better than the raw, rigid slats after being tossed quickly in a hot pan. That’s the easiest solution that I can offer for an ingredient that’s been puzzling a lot of people I know.

Beer-Braised Chorizo with Garlic, Onions and Greens

I had a spectacular tapas dish a long while back, of chorizo braised with cava, a Spanish sparkling wine. The key ingredient was really garlic — loads of it — which, in combination with the spicy sausage links enveloped the whole room with its pungent aroma. I don’t have cava around today, but I’ve noted that many similar tapas make use of Spanish hard cider (or sidra), another common effervescent alcoholic beverage. So I brought the whole thing home by … Read More

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