I Loves You, Whole Porgy

Wild local fish like flounder, stripers and bluefish are in season -- all good stuff, in my opinion, to steam whole, Chinese style. This weekend as I was gathering ingredients for a 6-person dinner party, I familiarized myself with another: the wild local porgy. A small fish by nature (not many grow over 6 lb, according to this fact sheet), its mild, sweet flavor lends itself well to a light preparation such as steaming. Once cooked, its flesh was moist and very delicate. Its light gray skin was thin and not too fatty, altogether quite delectable to eat in bites along with the flesh -- as long as you don't mind the little bones. I found the species' small bone factor a decent enough trade-off for its fine flavor, though I'm used to detecting and discarding small bones in my mouth.

2 Ingredients, 2 Recipes, 4 Meals

Spicy Shredded Pork and String Beans over Rice Pork Chop with Balsamic Reduction and Steam-Sauteed String Beans with Couscous I have a feeling I'm not the only one who does this: buy two fresh ingredients, often with no particular dish in mind to make, and come up with two different preparations for them over the course of two or three nights. Because who can finish a pre-packaged 1 lb of string beans if not over the course of four meals? And who wants to eat the same thing two nights in a row?

Cinnamon Raisin No-Knead Bread French Toast with Yogurt & Carmelized Apples

' A homespun breakfast with all the merits of "a good start." This weekend my neighborhood was once again bustling with brunching -- the all-afternon affair elongated by the sluggish buzz of cool cocktails and the sun and sights of street dining. I never did feel especially healthy leaving one of these spring or summer brunches in the end, nor (strangely) very full. But they certainly were nice for a warm spring day like we just had, magnolia trees bursting with perfumed, short-lived blossoms and an arid, bright sunshine not too hot. Ah, well.

Chicken with Apples and Raisin Couscous

I’ve made similar recipes to this using chicken and olives, or just seafood, but in the aftermath of last weekend’s brunch I found myself with a bagful of apples. Crunching my way through the whole week, I’ve jettisoned the idea of baking (yet another) pie. There’s a lot more versatility in apples than we’ve traditionally credited them with, I think. If applesauce or cider can be used to flavor savory dishes, then why not the fruit’s more assertive, fresher state?

Clown Gospel Brunch

In the wake of the tragic event at Virginia Tech, I’m feeling a little less than enthusiastic about food right now. There’s no knowing how all the ramifications of the tragedy will pan out, and until then, I’ll move on with my humble food blog. However, when you attach a memorable feast to a humanitarian cause, as the Glass Contraption theatre company did, good times are definitely a little easier to swallow. Last weekend I had the opportunity help raise money for the troupe’s sojourn to South Africa to help children affected by HIV through the Topsy Foundation. The Glass Contraption is one serious group of clowns. For consecutive summers they've used their professional clowning skills to help brighten the lives of orphans, collaborating with the children of Topsy on performances. My role? I made brunch. Hosted and co-chefed by my friend Bob, we served thirty-some people for a gospel-themed brunch in the midst of a stormy April Sunday.

Salmon Cakes

They say that good, fresh fish should be served simple, with little preparation. I guess they haven't tried these yet. It's like the perfectly seasoned seared salmon fillet in one light, fluffy, flaky cake. The picture doesn't do it much justice, I'll admit, so you'll just have to take my word for it.

Fresh Coffee Premium Ice Cream

Because I had such a frustrating time finding the "ultimate" coffee ice cream recipe in cookbooks and online, I decided to share the pastiche of my findings in one neat recipe. Following the cues for premium ice cream in my machine's booklet, which is usually a more custardy, denser variety that uses egg yolks and/or whole eggs, I added a touch of fresh (strong) brewed coffee, and an optional scatter of dark chocolate chunks.

Beer-Braised Pot Roast

Carmelized onions. Hint of shallots. Last bottle of Yuengling Lager from last weekend's burger feast. Score: the roast with the most. How many times have you seen that commercial for Fresh Direct where Cynthia Nixon keeps asking "What's the TLC? Where does it say TLC?" Well, not all recipes necessarily need TLC. With some, you can walk away perfectly aloof to a simmering pot for a couple of hours, and come back to a balanced, tender, moist and delicate hunk of roast. The only tender loving care I gave to this dish was actually slicing the meat, since it splintered so much it would fall apart with a touch that was too rough. Sounds a bit incongruous for a way to handle a hulking wodge of beef. So forgive me, vegetarian friends, as I indulge.

Hot Sesame Noodles

A lovely article in the New York Times Magazine last week that aimed to decode the recipe behind the perfect bowl of cold sesame noodles was all the excuse I needed to indulge you with another testament to my fondness for the dish. It's an unconditional love that extends from the classic cold staple to a decidedly spicy variety that I like to prepare hot. Yes, hot. I'm not exactly sure how or when I learned to enjoy this dish, but I'm pretty sure my mother was the instigator. The minute I mix together sesame paste with red chili garlic sauce my nose tingles with an unmistakable sensory memory--of the food, itself, not how I learned to make it. It's a sharp, cutting scent that foretells fieriness. And another hackjob at my tastebuds.

Burger Fix

Have it your way. Or mine (above): a beef patty pre-seasoned with Worcestershire sauce, minced shallot, salt and pepper with sharp white cheddar cheese, sliced mushrooms sauteed with sherry vinegar, micro greens, fresh onion and tomato, garlic-parsley mayo and a dollop of Dijon mustard on a homemade egg wash-brushed roll. Only a suggestion.